The Joy of Eating

“…When you partake of food and drink, may your taste quicken to the gift and sweetness that flows from the earth…” - John O’Donohue

Weight loss is typically one of the more popular New Year’s resolutions. I recently overheard a woman tell her friend that “2023 was her year to lose weight”, as she had finally found a diet that made sense. She explained that she was going “primal” and “eating like a caveman”, consuming mostly meat, supplemented with small amounts of tubers, nuts, and berries. She was convinced this plan was healthy because “our ancestors did not suffer from any of our modern-day chronic ailments, nor were they obese”. Their simple diet, she explained, kept them amazingly “fit, trim, and super strong” as they spent their days hunting and gathering food.

Whereas I question this woman’s view of our ancestors being free from chronic ailments—we can only speculate about their health, and they didn’t live very long—it is reasonable to assume that, given the pressures of acquiring the food necessary for survival, they were most likely lean and trim. But their food supply was highly unpredictable, forcing them to spend most of their day—as much as 90% of their waking hours--finding something to eat. Meat was a luxury, as hunting required skill and patience, while the availability of animals was unpredictable. Catching a buffalo or an antelope was a complicated process, requiring several people and days of complex tracking, with a high rate of failure. Even catching enough fish to feed a family was hard to do. To stay alive our ancestors relied more on gathering skills, collecting fruits, vegetables, tubers, and nuts to meet their caloric needs. Given the difficulty of hunting, it is unlikely our ancestors sat down to a steak dinner every night. Most likely they existed on what they could gather with a very limited consumption of animal protein.

Our ancestor’s plant-based diet reflects many of the current dietary recommendations related to healthy eating. Their eating patterns are very similar to the Mediterranean diet, which was proposed by Ansel Keys in 1958. While developing the K-rations eaten by mobile troops during World War II, Keys noticed that the Italians he met in the small towns in Southern Italy were much healthier than people in New York City. He was particularly interested in how the different diets and lifestyles of these two diverse areas impacted cardiovascular health. In 1958, Keys launched his “Seven Countries Study”, which examined the health and nutrition of 12,000 healthy middle-aged men across the globe, from Italy and the Greek Islands, to Yugoslavia, the Netherlands, Finland, Japan, and the United States. From his data, Keys found that men who ate a plant-based diet and lived a particular lifestyle had the lowest rates of cardiovascular disease. His observations became known as the Mediterranean diet which, since 1958, has been the most studied diet and the most nutritionally sound eating plan available.

Of all the diets that have come and gone over the years, the Mediterranean has the most research to support its claims. It is not an eating plan that leads to rapid weight loss, nor is it developed by someone with an eye toward profit. Keys’ Seven Countries Study simply noted what researchers found as they traveled the globe—diets high in saturated fat were associated with higher cholesterol levels and heart disease. Of note were the men who lived in Mediterranean countries such as Italy, Greece, and Croatia. These men had lower levels of cardiovascular disease and ate diets rich in fruits, vegetables, legumes, whole grains, nuts, seeds, lean proteins, and healthy fats. Unlike those from other areas of the globe, men in these areas ate a wide variety of foods, most of which were unprocessed with few additives and, importantly, were highly seasoned. They ate the foods their families had been preparing and eating for decades—wholesome meals prepared with a focus on taste rather than calories or convenience. What also stood out was that these men were more physically active and tended to eat most meals with others; eating was considered as a social event meant to be savored and shared with others.

Keys’ study found that men from Mediterranean areas did not demonize any one food group, but some foods were eaten more often than others, such as whole grains, fruits, vegetables, legumes, nuts, herbs, spices, and olive oil. Fish high in omega-3 fatty acids, such as salmon, sardines, and tuna, were the preferred animal source, whereas chicken and turkey were eaten a few times per week. Red meat was consumed sparingly, as was butter. Eggs, dairy, and cheese were part of the diet, but consumed in smaller portions. Alcohol was limited to one glass per day, if not less.

Although Keys describes this healthy way of eating as the “Mediterranean diet”, he was not proposing it as a weight loss plan. Keys was using the word “diet” in the truest sense of the term, by describing a specific way of eating. He collected his extensive research and proposed the Mediterranean diet as a guide for food choices that promote heart health rather than a strict prescription to shed pounds. One important component that gets overlooked in the Mediterranean diet is Keys’ observation that Mediterranean men had higher levels of physical activity and, importantly, enjoyed eating, approaching it as a pleasant social event to be savored. Current adaptations of the diet frequently overlook these two important variables of Keys’ findings.

The Mediterranean diet differs from traditional “eat this not that” diets in that it is adaptable and flexible while being backed by decades of research. Since 1958, we’ve collected plenty of data about this eating style and the list of its benefits is long, from reducing the risk of developing Type 2 diabetes, improving bone health, lowering cancer rates and the incidence of neurological disorders, to reducing pregnancy complications. It enjoys a higher rate of compliance than other diets: one study found that 66% of those who started eating by the guidelines maintained those changes after one year. By itself, the diet does not eliminate our chances of developing a chronic illness, but it does reduce our risk. Other health habits, such as regular exercise, maintaining a good sleep schedule, not smoking, and limiting alcohol consumption, are also important and bolster its protective qualities.

Given all its benefits, why don’t more people follow the Mediterranean guidelines? Why do diets such as Keto, Paleo, and Primal dominate the headlines and capture all the buzz? The Mediterranean program is an outlier in the weight loss arena as it doesn’t conform to our culture’s criteria of what a diet should be. It does not demonize a food group, restrict calories, nor does it demand adherence to a rigid set of rules about when, what, or how to eat. Most weight loss diets set us up for a battle with food in which we are rarely victorious. A focus on avoiding “bad” foods while eating only “clean” or “good” foods is a staple of weight loss diets, which morphs our relationship with food, making eating an arduous task seeped in avoidance and control. We fight our cravings, suppress our desires, and stick with the plan, all with the promise of consistent weekly weight loss. Most diets feature menus that require careful planning and exquisite execution, a tightly controlled process that makes the actual act of eating a bland and lifeless affair. We’ve taken one of our most natural and enjoyable activities—eating—and made it so unpleasant that it requires endless hacks—apps, journals, food logs, weigh-ins, and health coaches, to help us control our behavior.

The Mediterranean diet is an “anti-diet” diet, as it is a lifestyle that encourages us to select food that is both savory and delicious. If followed in the true spirit of Keys’ observations, it can help us rediscover the joy of eating. It is not meant to be a tool for rapid weight loss, but a change in how we approach food, experiencing the appeal of whole, unprocessed foods that are rich in taste and meant to be savored. In a long-term study of 30,000 people in Italy, those who followed the guidelines closely for 12 years were less likely to gain weight or be obese than those who were less diligent. Other studies have confirmed that weight loss can be achieved when the guidelines are followed closely, especially when exercise is included as part of the plan. And unlike other diets, the Mediterranean diet has an excellent track record of maintaining weight loss. Those who adhere to the program tend to maintain whatever weight loss they achieve for a much longer period than those on strict calorie reduction diets, who tend to rebound and regain more weight upon ending a program.

What we’ve lost in our quest to lose weight and count calories is the very essence of the role food plays in our lives—it nourishes us. What is missed in our zeal to lose weight is a critical finding of the Seven Countries Study; the Mediterranean men enjoyed the process of eating. Meals were an event, a time to relax, be with others, and satisfy one’s hunger. The whole foods of the Mediterranean diet such as fruits, vegetables, and nuts, were well matched to a leisurely dinner—they take a long time to chew and digest. Each has a different mouth feel with a taste that changes as it lingers on the tongue. The longer food takes to chew and the greater the surface area it touches on the tongue, the more satisfying that food will be, both physically and emotionally. When the whole process of eating nourishes us, we consume less and feel more satisfied.

I find it strange that our ancestors spent a good portion of their day searching for food, whereas now we spend a good portion of our day trying to avoid it. Do you enjoy your food? How do you approach the process of eating? Is eating a time to rebuild, relax, and recharge, or is it a dreaded event in which you weigh, measure, log, and count every morsel under the harsh light of judgment? Even if we do not follow the food guidelines of the Mediterranean diet, perhaps we can take from it one of its most important lessons—good, wholesome food nourishes, and eating should be a time for connecting with others and renewing energy. Perhaps you enjoy eating and look forward to each meal. Savor that joy and the nourishment it can offer. If not, what would happen if you made 2023 the year in which you rediscover the pleasure of food?